After my magical introduction to Patagonia at Torres del Paine National Park, I visited the colossal Perito Moreno Glacier, explored the iconic hiking trails in El Chaltén, and concluded my Patagonia adventure with a visit to the Argentinian mountain town of Bariloche.
Perito Moreno Glacier
From Puerto Natales, I bused six hours north, crossing over the Chilean Argentinian border, to Calafate, the Argentinian town closest to the Perito Moreno Glacier.
In Calafate, I befriended Bart, a jovial, kind-hearted, spirited, hilarious, and slightly raucous Aussie. Bart, my German Torres del Paine friend, Felix, and I caught a 1.5 hour bus ride to check out Perito Moreno in Los Glaciares National Park. I’ve seen some pretty incredible glaciers in the past, but I have never seen one as impressive as Perito Moreno. This glacier formation is 30 km (19 miles) long, 5 km (3.1 miles) wide, and has an average height of 74 meters (240 feet)! It is one of the only glaciers in the world that is not receding. We were astounded by its enormity and cheered when parts of the glacier broke off and crashed into Lago (“Lake”) Argentino, making a startlingly loud noise like a clap of thunder. The three of us hopped in a boat and when we ferried up close to observe the mountain of compressed ice, its grandeur only magnified.
Calafate and Perito Moreno Expert Tips
- Perito Moreno is worth it, but don’t spend more time in than you need to in Calafate.
- Calafate does boast a few mention-worthy bars and eateries. Isabel Cocina al Disco is a solid local spot, and my friend Bart claims Mi Viejo has the best lamb in Patagonia. Let me know if you agree!
- The best way to see Perito Moreno is to do the half-day or full-day guided trek on top of the glacier. I chose not to book a tour as I had done some glacier hiking / climbing in Iceland. But, after seeing the glacier and exchanging notes with other travelers, I believe the glacier hike is the undisputed move. You will need to book the hike at least a couple of days in advance.
El Chaltén
From Calafate, Bart and I, hopped on a bus and journeyed three hours north to El Chaltén (“Chaltén”), a charming little Argentinian town located within Los Glaciares National Park, the same park as Perito Moreno.
Chaltén is a must-see stop on any Patagonia visitor’s checklist. The town’s world-class hiking trails win over the hearts of thousands of trampers each year; the town has even been labeled as the trekking capital of Argentina. Furthermore, this frontier town has solid cuisine, inviting bars, and lively hostels, making it the perfect place to make new friends.
While visiting Chaltén I had two particularly fond experiences, both spent in the company of incredible travel mates: 1) I spent one day hiking the famous Laguna de Los Tres (Fitz Roy) hike and neighboring trails, and 2) I celebrated my 30th birthday with a sunset hike and picnic. The more I traveled, the more aware I became of the importance of finding good travel mates and I found some wonderful friends in Chaltén.
Background on Laguna de Los Tres (Fitz Roy) Hike
Laguna de los Tres hike, better known as the Fitz Roy hike, is a spectacular ~20 km (12 mile) there and back trek that is the most famous hike in Chaltén and is regarded as one of the most iconic trails in all of Patagonia. The hike leads to Laguna de Los Tres, which translates to “Lake of the Three”, the three refers to the three jagged peaks that erupt from behind the lake. These three peaks are Cerro Fitz Roy (the tallest), Cerro Poincenot and Cerro Torre. These jagged peaks epitomize the rugged mountaintops of Patagonia and are the inspiration for the logo for the Patagonia clothing company.
The Day a 20 kilometer Hike Turned into 50 kilometers
The morning I set out for a sunrise Fitz Roy hike, I was anticipating a leisurely solo 20 km (12.5 mile) hike, but the tramp turned into a 50 km (31 mile) fast-paced marathon adventure in the company of two lovely new mates.
The first 9 km of the hike, over relatively flat and loosely wooded terrain, passed quickly. Before long, I approached a trail sign indicating the viewpoint was an “Extremely Difficult” one kilometer ascent away, estimated to take one hour. I puffed arrogantly at the sign and whispered “don’t underestimate me Mr. Fitz!” Ten minutes into the climb I recognized it was I who had underestimated the mountain and not the other way around. My calves were burning and my lungs screaming when I reached the top. The Patagonian wind, my infamous friend from the previous week, greeted me with fervor as I crested the mountain. I stumbled over rocks and swayed in the wind as I made my way over the last stretch of the of trail to the viewpoint.
Laguna de Los Tres Lake with the sawtooth mountain peaks looming in the distance was a truly breathtaking sight. I don’t mean to pick favorites, but even more so than the granite towers at Torres del Paine, this scene deserved silent reverence that is often only reserved for man-made masterpieces like Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel.
I met some hikers at the lake and they gave me the exceptional advice to walk along the left edge of the lake to find a hidden view of Laguna Sucia.
My plans to leisurely hike down the mountain and spend the rest of the day snuggled up in bed with a good book were suddenly thwarted when I ran into Sofie. Sofie is a spunky Belgian girl and I was immediately drawn to her when I saw her quietly gazing in wonderment at Fitz Roy. We decided to join forces and explore a hidden trail that we were convinced existed past the lake. We tiptoed a precipitous boulder edge but eventually gave up when we could not find finger-holds to propel ourselves higher. We laughed and decided it was time to descend the mountain.
Shortly into our descent, we ran into one of my roommates, JP, who I had met briefly the prior evening. JP seamlessly joined our group; he is a hilarious English guy who was obsessed with seeing as much of Chaltén’s trails as possible over a two day time frame. We descended rapidly, but the three of us were enjoying one another’s company so much that we agreed to continue our adventure and explore neighboring trails.
That afternoon, we hiked to enjoy a view of Piedras Blancas Glacier and then continued through the forest to Hostería El Pilar, a popular alternative starting place for the Fitz Roy hike. Even when the trail ended, we decided to continue off the path along a riverbed. After hiking 50 km (31 miles) we eventually arrived back at Hostel Rancho Grande in late afternoon. We joined forces with Bart and my two other incredible roommates, Roisin, a lovely convivial Irish woman, and Luz, a bubbly somewhat Bohemian Argentinian from Buenos Aires, and celebrated the day with dinner and drinks.
Celebrating my 30th Birthday in Patagonia
It can be difficult to celebrate a birthday in a foreign country, away from friends and family, but my 30th was made special by travelers I met while on the road. Bart spear-headed the birthday campaign; after all, everyone knows Aussies know how to throw a party. Bart, Luz, Roisin, and I bought some Malbec, cheese, crackers, and chipas (Argentinian cheese-bread balls) and headed out on the Mirador de Los Condores trail to catch the sunset.
Mirador de Los Condores is an easy 1.5 km trail trail that lies on the outskirts of town and, like most trails in the area, is conveniently only a 10 minute stroll from the hostel front door. The four of us made quick work of the short trail, only stopping when an armadillo, absorbed in hunting for insects, waddled across our path. At the end of the trail, on top of a rocky outcrop, we settled down in a nook shielding us from the stiff Patagonian wind.
As the sun retreated behind the mountaintops, while we sipped our wine and tasted our Argentian treats, we reveled in the spectacular view of Chaltén with Fitz Roy Mountain in the backdrop. We all agreed how we appreciated the view more now, because we had gotten up close and personal with Fitz the prior day. The sunset wasn’t spectacular, but the view and the incredible company made the moment an unforgettable one. We did not want it to end, but we ran out of wine… that, combined with the encroaching darkness and hands-in-pockets shuffle inducing wind, forced us down the trail in to town where we continued the festivities.
Chaltén Expert Tips
- If you do the Fitz Roy Hike, do not miss out on view of Laguna Sucia. After enjoying the view of Laguna de Los Tres with Fitz Roy peak in the background, walk along the left edge of the lake to capture a stunning view of Laguna Sucia. This trail may be concealed in snow, but the view is worth the extra 5-10 minute walk.
- For a popular hiking and backpacking town, Chaltén serves up surprisingly tasty food. My favorite food spots in Chaltén were Fuegia and La Tapera. Also, after a day on the trail with friends, I recommend stopping by the lively La Vinería wine bar for drinks.
Bariloche
The skiing and trekking mountain town of Bariloche was my final stop on my Patagonia tour. I’m not sure if it was because I did not experience Bariloche during ski season, maybe it was the chocolatiers and Swiss chalet alpine architecture that seemed out of place, or maybe I was just a bit burned out from my previous weeks of trekking, but Bariloche failed to impress me like other spots in Patagonia. That being said, Bariloche is a beautiful place and I still enjoyed some Patagonia highlight reel experiences during my time there.
While in Bariloche, I stayed at the popular Hospedaje Penthouse 1004 hostel. The hostel was, no joke, a penthouse apartment with an incredible outside terrace view of Lago Nahuel Huapi and the Andes Mountains (second best hostel view ever, only second to The Cliff Hostel I stayed at in Cambodia). The hostel was the perfect place to plan, rest, write, and reflect on my adventures. It may sound crazy, but traveling can be exhausting and every once in a while, I realized that I needed a “weekend” to rest up so I could fully appreciate everything I was seeing.
My two highlights of Bariloche were the Cerro Llao Llao hike and a kayaking trip on Lago Gutierrez.
If you are looking for a short, lesser-known hike, with epic views, I highly recommend the Cerro Llao Llao hike (pronounced “shao shao”). I was a bit hiked-out from my Torres del Paine and Chaltén adventures, but the views from my hostel patio were surreal, so I did not want to miss out entirely on the Bariloche magic. I caught a 40 minute local #20 bus to Lla Llao Hotel, walked 15 minutes down the main road to the trail head, and then walked along the trail, through a thick forest and up a winding path for 1 hour to reach the Cerro Llao Llao viewpoint. From a rocky outcrop at the top of the mountain, the nearly 360 degree view of the densely wooded alpine forest, deep-blue snaking waters of Lago Nahuel Huapi, and Andes Mountains is outrageous. I can confidently say that it is the best view I have every seen for a such a short hike.
One day, I went on a guided kayaking trip out on Lago Gutierrez. We kayaked for 45 minutes and pulled into a secluded beach only accessible by water. Here, the guides unpacked some pastries and introduced me to mate tea.
I was surprised at how much I enjoyed the smokey Argentinian beverage, and I quickly became enamored by the mate experience. Everyone in the group drinks out of the same cup and shares the same straw (“bombilla”), passing the cup from one person to the next. The sharing of one cup and one straw prevents the activity from being rushed. Argentinians will often sit in a circle of friends and enjoy good conversation over mate for hours. I learned that Argentinians, from nearly the age they can walk, are constantly drinking mate. I soon realized that, if you keep an eye out for it, you will begin to spot Argentinians with their cups, bombillas, and Stanley thermoses everywhere. The views on the lake were breathtaking, but the experience of enjoying mate with the lovely Argentinian local kayak guides was the experience that truly etched itself in my memory.
Bariloche Expert Tips
- If you are planning on hostel accommodations, stay at Hospedaje Penthouse 1004. There are other solid hostels in Bariloche, but the view from this hostel is unbeatable.
- Hike the Cerro Llao Lao if you are looking for a short hike with outrageous views. Tack on adjacent trails and hikes within the Parque Municipal, if you are in search of a longer hike.
- Grab a bite at La Fonda del Tio. The quality of the food is not mind-blowing, but it is a famous classic Patagonian eatery that will be jam-packed with locals and it is worth a visit. The portion sizes are colossal, the half portion will be enough, trust me.
