Chile, Week 1: Santiago, Cajón del Maipo, Embalse El Yeso, and Valparaíso

Next stop, Chile!

After my Euro trip in September, I flew back to the States for two days, and then caught a flight to Santiago, Chile. Similar to my Euro excursion, my plan was to traverse Chile and Argentina with no itinerary etched in stone. The one must see destination on my list was Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia. Other than that, I planned to roam free for six weeks, talking to locals and fellow travelers to find the best spots to visit.

Being A Tourist in Santiago

During my first few days in Chile’s capital, I was a proper tourist and visited many of the city’s main attractions. Consistent with my typical etiquette in a new city, I walked for days stopping to people watch and eat along the way.

I covered many of Santiago’s major tourist attractions, including the following.

• Cerro San Cristóbal. Dodged thousands of bicyclist as I walked up this 880 meter hill located in the center of Santiago’s largest park, and I was rewarded with a panorama of the entire city.
• Plaza de Armas. People watched in Santiago’s main square.
• La Vega Central Market. Grabbed an inexpensive but tasty lunch alongside locals on the second floor of this market warehouse.
• El Barrio Italia, El Bario Brasil, and Bellavista. Wandered through three of Santiago’s most trendy, colorful, and popular neighborhoods.
• La Chascona. Visited the home of Pablo Neruda and learned more about this famous Chilean poet and Pinochet’s dictatorship.

My two favorite activities were walking up and enjoying the view of Santiago from Cerro San Cristóbal and visiting La Chascona.

My Take on Santiago

Santiago did not blow me away: it does not have mesmerizing architecture; the parks and public spaces are not pristine nor enchanting; the food is not noteworthy nor the cafes alluring. Even though Santiago was not overly impressive, I decided to stay an extra day.

I have learned from past travels that sometimes it is best to stay around for an extra day with no plans or expectations, because on that extra day, when you least expect it, you will meet the best people.

Dinner with a Chilean Travel Buddy

During my bonus day in Santiago I had the chance to grab dinner with a travel buddy, Spiro, who lives in Santiago. Spiro was the first of many Chileans that I met on my journey whom demonstrated an exceptional warmth and a unique willingness to let strangers into their lives. I barely knew Spiro and he was completely swamped at work yet he still made time to grab dinner with me.

Spiro and I had originally met in Plakias, Crete, Greece, early in the summer and on that occasion we had only had the chance to converse for a few hours. While sitting among the olive groves and lime trees surrounding our Plakias hostel, Spiro spoke of all the places I needed to see in Chile and I recall being enraptured by the love he had for his country and his people.

My Santiago evening with Spiro didn’t involve clubbing in Bellavista nor partaking in a classic all you can eat Chilean or Argentinian asado (barbecue), instead it was a simple pub chat among friends; even so, it was one of my favorite nights in South America. I was reminded yet again how magical traveling can be.

When you meet a traveler on the road in a foreign country, and then have the opportunity to visit that traveler in his/her home country, it is magical.

We visited a local bar and Spiro introduced me to the completo italiano hot dog. This Chilean dish entails an over-sized hot dog in a bun lined with, ketchup, mayonnaise, and avocado. I’m not a huge fan of the mayo, but all-in-all a very solid red, white, and green (colors of the Italian flag, hence the name) Chilean specialty. First, Spiro and I bonded over Plakias and then we talked about what we have been up to since our visit in Greece. Then, Spiro gave me an impressive rundown on Chilean’s economy and culture. I loved getting an insider’s perspective on a country I knew so little about and was planning to spend the next few weeks exploring. We talked for a few hours before Spiro begrudgingly left to complete a work deliverable.

Thank you so much for meeting with me Spiro and giving me a proper introduction to your beautiful country! We’ll have to meet up again one day in Plakias.

New Friends and New Travel Plans

I was laying in my hostel bed after my evening with Spiro and I heard a raucous coming from the hostel common room. I was tired, but after my evening out with a local, I had a new energy and desire to explore. I hopped out of bed and scurried down the stairs to investigate the commotion.

I found myself involved in a hilarious 2:00 am conversation between Ivan, the hostel owner, Claudia, a friend of Ivan, and two Swiss guys (Danny and Alex) who were friends of Ivan and Claudia. Before long, I had thrown the next day’s travel plans out the window and I had committed to joining my new Swiss friends on a car trip to explore Cajón del Maipo (canyon) and see the glacial blue waters of the Embalse El Yeso (lagoon).

Car Trip to Visit Embalse El Yeso and Cajón del Maipo

The full day excursion, we took the next day, from Santiago to Salto del Yeso to Embalse El Yeso, and then through the Cajón del Maipo was spectacular. The sky was clear, the sunny was shinning, and the scenery was jaw-dropping.

Danny, Alex, and I had a blast dancing to tunes in the car, laying in the sun while chomping on empanadas, and laughing so hard at each others antics that we were forces to clutch our stomachs in pain. Constantly we would jump out of the car, let out a sigh, and exclaim in unison, that yet again, nature had left us speechless. The pictures we took that day are evidence of Chile’s beauty and nature’s splendor. But, spending time with Danny and Alex while taking in the sights made the day that much more special.

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Visiting Valparaíso and Viña del Mar

After our incredible full day car adventure, I spent another night in Santiago and then caught a bus to Valparaíso the next morning. Valparaíso (“Valpo”) is a colorful port city that is located only a 1.5 hour bus ride west of Santiago. The town is known for its: impressive street graffiti, vivacious student population, bohemian culture, vibrant colored houses, steep hills (and funiculars), and coastal views.

While in Valpo, I reconnected with my Swiss friends from the prior day at our hostel, Hostal Po. We went on a free walking tour, wandered through Valpo’s many winding alleyways, rode funiculars, and opined on the meaning of gawk-worthy street art. Next, we headed over to the classy adjacent beach town, Viña del Mar, for dinner. That evening we salsa danced and partied the night away at Woo Club, a Valpo club.

I only spent one full day exploring Valpo and Viña del Mar, but I highly recommend allocating 2-3 days to visit these pretty coastal towns. And, if you are thinking about spending a few weeks or months living in Chile, I recommend that you consider selecting Valpo for your home base.

Shout out to my awesome new Swiss friends, Danny and Alex. Thanks for making those 2-3 days together in Chile so incredible! Can’t wait to reconnect again elsewhere in the world.