I Can’t Stop Shouting “Ciao Ragazzi!”
I’ve recently been plagued with a form of Tourette’s where I spontaneously shout “Ciao Ragazzi!” It’s like a just rolled five dies of the same number, but instead of shouting “Yahtzee” for all to hear, I yell out “Ciao Ragazzi!” I guess I should provide some backstory for the origin of my syndrome. Recently, I was furiously pedaling up a steep Tuscan hill, on my way to the town of San Gimignano, and I shouted “Ciao!” to a passerby. The man turned his head and amicably replied “Ciao Ragazzi!” and ever since, I have been blurting it out nonstop. It rolls off the tongue nicely, right? Say it with me, “Ciao Ragazzi!” At the time, I had no idea the phrase harmlessly translates to “Hi Guys”, but not knowing its meaning didn’t stop me from shouting it at the top of my lungs that day as I biked through Tuscan vineyards and visited medieval fortress towns. If my British hostel friends whom explored Tuscany with me that day, Cody and Martin, aka the “Cambridge boys”, happen to be reading this, I apologize to you guys for having to put up with me and my crazy antics. But, you have to admit, it was one hell of a day, right Cambridge boys? Before we get into Tuscany, let’s backpedal a bit and discuss what brought me to lovely Italia.
Greece, the States, then back to Europe… I Like You, but You’re Crazy
I wasn’t planning on revisiting Europe so soon after visiting Greece. Logistically, the trip didn’t make any sense, especially considering South America was the next destination on my list. My plans changed when an invitation to an authentic Italian wedding suddenly landed on my family’s doorstep. If you ever get the opportunity to attend an authentic Italian wedding, treat that invitation like you just won Willy Wonka’s golden ticket, because I assure you the wedding will be better than any chocolate factory and will be an experience you will never forget.
My Italian Brother is Getting Married!
When my older brother, Brian, went off to college, my mom “replaced” him with a cute black and white puppy, “Zeus”. Two year later, when I went off to college, my spot in the house was filled with an Italian foreign exchange student, “Marco”. At least I was replaced by a human being, take that bro! Just messing Bri, you are irreplaceable.
During my freshman year of college, Marco became part of the family. Although I spent the majority of that year at college in North Carolina, I spent my holidays, vacations, and a few weeks of the following summer hanging with Marco. Fast forward ten years and we suddenly received news that Marco was getting married, and my whole family was invited to the wedding! Unfortunately, my younger sister and older brother could not make the journey. My parents and I could make the trip and we jumped at the opportunity. Before I knew it, I was on a plane heading to Rome, and my backpack had two new additions: some tight white khaki pants and a new blue and white striped linen shirt… when in Roma.
Italian Wedding Ceremony in an 11th Century Monastery
The wedding took place near Marco’s hometown of Avezzano, a cute town in the Abruzzo region of Italy, located only one hour and 30 minutes east of Rome. Like out of a fairy tale, the ceremony was performed in a beautiful 11th century monastery perched on the mountainside. Keeping with Italian tradition, the bride kept the groom waiting and showed up 30 minutes late to her own wedding! This is an odd tradition, but I will admit, the delay builds an incredible amount of suspense, because you never know when the bride will finally appear. And when she finally did strut through the doorway, I felt excitement surge through the crowd and I had the urge to jump out of my chair and start high-fiving everyone within reach, like I was celebrating a walk-off home-run in the bottom of the ninth.
The ceremony lasted one hour and 30 minutes, and I didn’t understand a single word of it, but it sure was beautiful. The “Ave Maria” rendition nearly brought the audience to tears. I noted that the service was more serious than the weddings I have attended in the States. For example, the priest did not crack any sly jokes about the bride or groom; or, at least I don’t think he did, as everything was in Italian. Also, nearly every Italian in attendance knew all the words to the wedding blessings and sayings and recited them along with the priest with enthusiasm and pride. I’ll admit, I felt a little left out of this portion of the service. Although I don’t really have a clue as to what happened out there in that ancient monastery on the idyllic Italian mountainside, I was enraptured in the moment and felt privileged to be part of such a special and authentic occasion.
Italians Take Food and Family Seriously
The ceremony was epic, but the night only got better, as we next headed to a nearby restaurant to celebrate the couple and fill our stomachs with outrageously delicious Italian food. While we were waiting for the bride and groom to arrive at the venue, we were treated to two enormous buffet lines, which consisted of dozens of food stations. Everything from grilled octopus to ham was served; there was even a fresh vegetable frying station. With considerable restraint, I tried not to go too crazy with the hors d’oeuvres, as I had heard rumors of the feast that was to follow. I noted that the other guests did not show similar control, as I saw many plates stacked high with mountains of food.
After the bride and groom arrived, we found our tables in the main dining area. Our family had hosted Marco for one year, ten years ago, and we were a bit stunned by the celebrity status we received when we located our designated tables. My table was comprised of Marco’s best childhood friends. I soon discovered that my parents were not only sitting at Marco’s parent’s table, but they were wedged between the two of them! We felt special and truly part of the family. One thing became clear quickly, Italians take family seriously.
The first course, which consisted of a delicious tagliatelle pasta with langostino, was served at 9:30. Our second course was served at 10:15, this dish was comprised of a tasty ricotta ravioli with toasted almonds. Sadly, my parents and I had to leave before the third, fourth, and fifth courses arrived. As expected at an Italy wedding, the food was spectacular and didn’t disappoint.
Courses and Conversations First, Then Dancing, at an Italian Wedding
A significant difference between a wedding in the States and a wedding in Italy is the time spent seated at the dinner table, enjoying food, and conversing with the people at your table. Not surprising, the Italians take their time and enjoy the moment. In the weddings that I have attended in the States, the guests typically wolf down their food and drinks as quickly as humanly possible so they can jump out on the dance floor when The Isley Brothers’ “Shout” is played. Although weddings in the States are incredible in their own way, Marco’s wedding had a completely different pace and I loved it. Not only did I have the opportunity to savor each bite of tagliatelle, that I carefully twirled around my fork so as not to look like a silly American foreigner, I also had the opportunity to really get to know Marco’s friends and listen to funny stories from his childhood. Marco’s friends were so kind to include me in the funny toasts we made on Marco’s behalf and to make sure I was involved in the conversations. I learned that the real party and dancing didn’t start until after all the courses of food were served and enjoyed. I’m not sure how the Italians are able to bust moves on the dance floor with their stomachs stuffed, but it must be a superpower built into their genetic code.
Thank you Marco for inviting us to celebrate your special day with you and your family, it was a truly remarkable and memorable experience!
Tuscany and the Bassetto Guesthouse Hostel
For a while I have had the dream to own a villa in the heart of Tuscany. Although I have visited Italy a few times over the years, I haven’t explored Tuscany since I was a young child, too young to truly remember it’s charm. Nonetheless, I have this image of living in a rustic Tuscan villa that sits on a hill and overlooks rolling vineyards in every direction as far as the eye can see.
After exploring Rome (highlights include: Colosseum, Roman forum, Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica, and a Vivaldi Four Season’s concert in a church), I boarded a train and headed to Florence. It was time to check out Tuscany and investigate possible sites for my future villa!
I was on a train heading to Florence from Rome and I pulled up the hostel information on my Hostel World phone app and saw the words “We are located one hour from the center of Florence”. Wait, What!!!
I had been up late exploring Rome one night when I booked my hostel, and apparently I hadn’t done the proper due diligence. I had selected a highly rated hostel located in Certaldo, a small town that was technically still part of the Metropolitan City of Florence, but it was was located 20 miles (35 km) from the center of Florence. I freaked out for a second, but then decided the Florence Duomo could wait; after all, I was traveling by myself, so why couldn’t I call an audible and visit Certaldo for a few days? Who knows, Certaldo could end up being the perfect site for my villa! I arrived at the Florence train station and caught the next train to Certaldo.
Before long, I arrived in the picturesque town of Certaldo. The sun was just about to drop below the horizon, and the town’s buildings were basking in an orange glow provided by the last rays of the setting sun. Although the view was magical, I had not grabbed dinner and my energy was draining faster than the light. I tossed my pack on my back and quickly set out on the 20 minute journey to the Bassetto Guesthouse hostel. After walking for 15 minutes, the sidewalk suddenly ended; I suddenly found myself hugging a highway guardrail as a tiny Italian car whipped around a roundabout and nearly ended my Tuscan adventure. With my heart pumping out of my chest, I ran across the highway and hiked up a steep gravel driveway to my hostel.
It’s always a bit awkward when you arrive to a hostel late at night; you have no idea where anything is and all the hostel guests have already been acquainted, so you feel like an outcast. Upon entering the hostel courtyard I discovered a poorly lit sign pointing the way to the reception office. On the reception door was a note that read “Please join us on the patio, we are having family dinner.”
Traveling by yourself can be scary. I am naturally an introvert but I love to travel, because I am often forced to step out of my shell to meet new people and try new things. Travel brings out the best in me. It sounds silly in retrospect, but I was nervous to walk into the dinner party on the patio; I was hungry, tired, and didn’t know a soul. As is often always the case, my worries were unjustified.
Within 10 minutes, I was on the patio shaking hands with everyone, and making a plate of freshly made pasta and grilled burgers. Everyone at the hostel knew one another, they were like a family. Even so, all the hostel guests welcomed me to the dinner party with open arms. One even offered to get up from the table and give me a tour of the hostel grounds. I soon learned that every single person on the patio had been to the hostel at least once previously. A number of the guests had been there three or four times already. Two of the guests had been staying at the hostel for more than one month. With its long-term tenants, family atmosphere, and frequently returning guests, this hostel reminded me of Youth Hostel Plakias, the hostel I had visited in Crete earlier in the summer. See previous travel post for info on this hostel in Plakias, Crete. Hostels like these are hard to come by.
Bassetto Guesthouse is a special place. For one, the hostel reception sells local bottles of red wine for 6 euros a bottle! Need I say more?! The hostel living quarters are comprised of rustic Italian villas hundreds of years old. The hostel grounds are filled with fig trees ripe for the picking, and the property is surrounded by vineyards. A hostel guest can walk the hostel dog; go on a run in the neighboring vineyards; dunk in the hostel pool; or drink wine all day on one of the many patios.
During my time at Bassetto Guesthouse I went on numerous adventurous in Certaldo and the Tuscan countryside. Each day I would return to the hostel, and I would find the majority of the other guests engaged in relaxing activities ranging from: lying in the grass playing backgammon; swimming and sunbathing; reading a book in the hammock; or telling stories and laughing. All the while, they were drinking wine and chilling in complete bliss. They would see me and yell “Hey Tanner, join us! What did you get into today? We haven’t moved all day.” I couldn’t blame them, I totally understood where they were coming from. They had each already explored Certaldo during prior visits. Now, they were on a real holiday, enjoying one another’s company and soaking up the moment at their home away from home.
Each night, we would sip on local wine, share travel stories, and laugh late into the evening. The hostel manager, Jo, would ask “Do we need any more wine?” We would all raise our arms and nod our heads in unison. Hostel guests are famously parsimonious, and I was further bewitched by Bassetto Guesthouse when I noted that the guests shared their wine with one another; if one guest was out of wine, someone with wine would eagerly tip their bottle over the empty glass and fill it to the brim without hesitation.
I was especially lucky to be a guest at the hostel when two of its most famous frequent visitors were also guests. When John Baxter and Elise Huseinagic first performed, I nearly fell out of my chair I was so impressed by the raw and powerful sound of their voices. Please check out a display of their incredible talent below.
Conclusions on Italy
My time in Italy in early September was incredible. I accomplished so much in such a short while, I: attended Marco’s wedding with my parents; explored Rome with my parents and by myself; roamed Tuscany while staying at the Bassetto Guesthouse in Certaldo; and wandered the streets and museums of Florence. In the past I have been lucky enough to see many of Italy’s cities, sites, and regions, including: Venice, Piedmont, Lake Garda, Amalfi, and Milan. Although I have seen a significant portion of this beautiful country there is still so much more to see, and I can’t wait to return one day.
Recommendations for Certaldo, Italy
- Stay at Bassetto Guesthouse
- Drink local wine; attend a pasta making class on the premise; jog in neighboring vineyards; pick and eat fresh figs; and lay around all day making new friends with fellow visitors.
- Visit the cute Tuscan town of Certaldo and stroll around Certaldo Alto
- Certaldo is comprised of only a few streets, but it has everything you need: a cute Wednesday morning market; an Irish Pub; a grocery store; gelaterias; delicious bakeries; and a handful of cozy restaurants.
- Attend one of Certaldo’s many famous festivals, including a Medieval Dinner festival.
- Certaldo Alto is a medieval town that sits on a hill overlooking the modern town. Certaldo Alto is renowned for its views of Tuscany and its medieval castle walls and towers. I recommend grabbing lunch in Certaldo Alto. There are many highly rated restaurants. I tried Ristorante L’Antica Fonte and enjoyed a tasty meal while gazing out at the beautiful Italian countryside.
- Rent a bike and bike to San Gimgnano
- If you see a vineyard on the way, I recommend stopping. I spotted Teruzzi vineyard during the ride; we pulled over and enjoyed a delicious wine tasting.
- Once in San Gimgnano, visit Gelateria Dondoli for some unique gelato flavors that you can’t find anywhere else in the world; this gelateria has won numerous accolades and is considered by many as the source of the best gelato in the world!
- Take a train from the train station closest to San Gimignano, Poggibonsi, to Monteriggioni. Monteriggioni is a walled town known for its medieval fortifications and watchtowers. We were able to walk along the town’s walls and enjoy views of the surrounding Chianti region.
- Take a day trip to Florence
- The center of Florence is located just a one hour train ride away from Certaldo; trains run throughout the day, often more than one train departs each hour.
- Florence is gorgeous, but it can be a bit overwhelming with all of its tourists, so staying in Certaldo and visiting Florence for the day might be the right move for you.
