Two Weeks Left to Explore South America, Where to Next?
I was amped to explore more of Argentina, but I contemplated first stopping back over in Chile. The ongoing protests and current state of civil unrest in Chile dissuaded me from returning to that magical country. Instead, I set course for the Malbec vineyards of Mendoza, sprawling boulevards of Buenos Aires, and the bewilderingly beautiful and mighty Iguazu Falls.
Mendoza Adventures
I journeyed from the glistening blue lakes, lush green forests, and snow crowned indigo mountains of Bariloche to the orange, dry and dusty, desert plains of Mendoza. A different kind of beautiful. I was excited to visit a real, densely populated, Argentinian metropolis, as I had spent the last month jumping from one Patagonia tourist hub to the next. Also, I was in the mood to connect with travelers and visit some vineyards.
Getting a Feel for A New City
When I arrived in Mendoza I followed the classic “Tanner visits a new city playbook”, which goes something like this:
- Upon arrival, walk the city with no map and no destination in mind
- Join a free guided walking tour
- Jog through the city’s major park
- Eat what locals eat, where they eat it
- Connect and explore with hostel mates
Horseback riding and wine tasting with new mates is epic, and we’ll talk about those experiences in a moment, but I also believe it is important to use travel as a tool to see the world from another perspective. My directionless ambling, walking tour, run through Parque General San Martin and up Cerro de La Gloria hill, and meals among the locals, helped give me a peak into a world far different than my own.
Mendoza, a Microcosm for Argentina
From afar, the desert tanned locals looked content with their way of life. The people smiled and laughed, frequented the city’s many parks, and never appeared to be in a rush. Mid-day, the streets would clear out, everyone would leave the office and head home to nap from 1-5 pm. A four hour nap, mid-day, I kid you not! After napping, workers would return to their offices for a few hours and later rendezvous with their families for a late steak dinner. Gosh, Argentinians sure did love their steak.
At first glance, Mendoza seemed to have it all figured out. A burgeoning wine tourism destination, coupled with a people, happy with their way of life. A daily four hour mid-day nap and then 16 oz of steak, what’s not to like?! When I looked closer and started to ask questions, it did not take long to unwind the loosely threaded veil masking the illusion that Argentinians live an easy and perfect life.
Argentinians are a proud people but they have had a difficult past. I was given a glimpse into this troubled history when, during my walking tour, I spotted “Abuelas” stickers on park pavement. From 1976 to 1983, the Argentinian dictatorship abducted adults and children who they believed were undermining the government. During this time, 30,000 Argentinians disappeared, most were murdered and tortured. The Asociación Civil Abuelas de Plaza de Mayo was created to recover children kidnapped and illegally adopted by childless military and police couples and others favored by the regime. And, as evidenced by the stickers, they were still looking for these lost children nearly 40 years later.
A less than rosy picture of the current economic situation in Argentina started to form as well. I began to notice long queues stemming from every ATM in town. With projected inflation for the year expected to be 55%, there seemed to always be a shortage of cash. I learned that many Argentinians tried to convert pesos to USD whenever possible. I wasn’t surprised when I noticed that waiters and waitresses were more than happy to accept US dollars. My assessment of the current status of the economy weakened further, when my Uber driver almost started to cry when I handed him a 2 dollar tip.
I’m convinced that standing in a distant country, and having the opportunity to observe and interact with people from a foreign land has helped me to relate better with people defined by a past and present far different from my own.
Pretending to Be Argentinian Gauchos in the Mendoza Desert
After exploring Mendoza by myself, I focused my energy on connecting and adventuring with new friends. My hostel mates, particular my awesome new Texan friend, Jason, who ironically had never ridden a horse before, convinced me to join them on a sunset horseback ride out on the desert plains.
We had a blast pretending to be Argentinian gauchos “cowboys”. My horse was a legend and I got a kick out of showing off his exemplary behavior; my hostel friends teasingly poked fun at our undeniable chemistry. Maybe I should go work on a ranch in Texas? On second thought, I probably wouldn’t last a day. After our ride, we united with another group and enjoyed a traditional Argentinian steak barbecue out in the desert. Unlimited steak, unlimited wine, 20+ travelers from all over the world: my kind of scene.
Bicycle Wine Tasting Tour in Mendoza
The indisputable highlight of my time in Mendoza was a bicycle wine tasting tour. I joined eight other like-minded travelers, all in the mood to consume some vino, the majority of whom were staying at the hostel, and we set off on an unforgettable vineyard hopping expedition.
It was a beautiful sunny day, an archetypal Mendoza spring desert day, and we chatted and laughed, as we pedaled from one vineyard to the next. It is not difficult to have a ridiculously good time in the company of great people, especially when you have access to unlimited tasty 1.50 USD glasses of wine. That afternoon, our biking caravan stopped at four vineyards, Viña el Cerno, Mevi, Tempus Alba, and Trapiche. At each vineyard our group got a little louder, a little rowdier, and a little more confident in our wine palette abilities. Thankfully, we all made it back in one piece. Afterwards, we headed back into the city together for dinner, unwilling to separate from one another after sharing such an incredible day.
Mendoza Expert Travel Tips
- Go on a bike ride wine tasting tour!
- Fuente y Fonda is my favorite restaurant in town. Book a reservation, as this cozy and cute Argentinian / Italian cuisine hot spot fills up quickly. If you haven’t overdosed on steak yet, La Lucia is a popular joint which sells a solid, classic, tender, monster portion of Argentinian steak.
- Join a Tours for Tips free guided walking tour. There isn’t noteworthy architecture in the city, but the local tips and historical and cultural insights are worth the morning stroll. Besides, walking tours are the perfect place to make new travel friends.
- Visit a local casino to get Argentinian pesos and avoid the ridiculously high ATM transaction fees. Or, save yourself the trip, follow my travel tips and use a Fidelity ATM card.
Buenos Aires Adventures
After four days in Mendoza, I flew to Argentina’s capital, Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires is a clean and bustling melting pot that in many ways reminds me of New York City. The grandeur of its European architecture and classy cosmopolitan neighborhoods impressed me. Buenos Aires offers a little bit of everything, and the city is so enormous that it’s nearly impossible to see and do it all. I met some special travel mates in Buenos Aires, and we had a blast exploring the city together.
My Top Seven Buenos Aires Recommendations
1. If you are fútbol fan, attend a Club Atlético Boca Juniors (“Boca Juniors”) or Club Atlético River Plate (“River Plate”) match. Fútbol isn’t just a sport to Argentinians, it is a religion. Fans take the game more seriously here than anywhere else I’ve traveled, and that’s saying something as I’ve been to Barcelona’s Camp Nou stadium twice. The Boca Juniors and River Plate, both located in Buenos Aires, are Argentina’s two most popular fútbol clubs. Diego Maradona, arguably Argentina’s most famous player of all time, played for the Boca Juniors. When these two teams play each other, the country seems to stand still, everyone has their eyes glued to television screens. No joke, fans choose to leave their children at home as violent brawls often erupt in the stands.
I had the opportunity to attend a match at the Boca Juniors’ La Bombonera Stadium, and witness one of Argentina’s most prolific scorers of all time, Carlos Tevez, score a bicycle kick goal. Does it get any better than that?
2. Participate in Argentina’s most famous pastime, tango. Tango was invented in Buenos Aires. According to my tour guide, men would dance tango in the streets to settle disputes over women. Can we replace Tinder with Tango dance-offs?
One evening. I went with a my friends to watch locals tango in La Glorieta, a gazebo located in Barrancas de Belgrano park. I didn’t dare get out on the dance floor, as I couldn’t figure out how partners could dance so closely to one another without tripping over one another. I was astonished by the tango talent displayed by the locals, and I loved how Argentinians of all ages danced together.
3. Visit El Ateneo Grand Splendid, a gorgeous theater converted bookstore.
I visited this elegant bookstore during a morning rain storm. It was the perfect place to escape the downpour. I bought a book, snagged an empty chair, and settled down for a couple of peaceful hours of reading and people watching. Fun fact: Buenos Aires has the highest bookstores per capita of any city in the world.
4. Stop by the San Telmo market for the best empanadas in South America. San Telmo is a historic indoor market that has a wide variety of shops that sell everything from antiques to empanadas.
My friends and I were starving as we trekked across the sprawling city, so we pit-stopped for some spectacular empanadas at El Hornero. I believe this shop sells the freshest, out-of-the-oven, made-to-order, empanadas in all of South America, or at least Chile and Argentina.
5. Visit Palermo, Buenos Aires’ popular, hip, and classy neighborhood (“barrio”). I felt like I was in New York City’s west village when I wandered the cobblestone streets and explored the neighborhood’s cozy cafes. One evening, I reconnected with my Buenos Aires friend, Luz, who I had the pleasure of meeting in El Chaltén two weeks earlier. We grabbed dinner and then attended a modern dance performance to support one of Luz’s friends. Then, Luz took me to a popular Palermo college bar, Chupitos, that is famous for its absurd and comprehensive menu of shots. A few guys ordered one shot: the bartender stood on the bar, pouring the ingredients into their mouths; then, the bartender shook their heads back and forth violently to mix the shot, while we all screamed “uno!, dos!, tres!, cuatro!, cinco!” The risk of concussion may be high, but how cool is that?!
6. Walk the streets and alleyways of Recoleta Cemetery, a mini-city of ornately decorated, above-ground, vaults and mausoleums. This massive, nearly 5,000 grave, cemetery is located within a 15 acre plot of land in the Recoleta barrio of Buenos Aires. This was my first adventure in an above-ground cemetery, and I found this famous city landmark to be eerily beautiful.
7. Eat steak at a classic Argentina parilla steakhouse.
One day, my incredible travel mates, Vanessa, Thibaud, Inès, and I had a standout day exploring Buenos Aires. We crisscrossed the city, wandering its maze of streets, and visited some of the city’s main attractions, including: the San Telmo market, the Boca neighborhood, and La Glorieta tango gazebo. That evening, we refueled at a classic steakhouse, Parrilla El Pobre Luis, where we enjoyed mouthwatering steaks and wine for 20 USD a person. We capped off the evening, by visiting a nearby museum as the city was celebrating Free Museum day. Thanks for sharing an incredible day with me Vanessa, Thibaud, Inès!
The Bewilderingly Beautiful and Mighty Iguazu Falls
After five days in Buenos Aires, I flew to the tiny Argentinian tourist town of Puerto Iguazú, to see the Iguazu Falls. The Iguazu Falls (“Cataratas Del Iguazú” in Spanish and “Cataratas do Iguaçu” in Portuguese), straddles the Brazilian Argentinian border, and is the largest waterfall system in the world, with more than 275 waterfalls.
I visited the Iguazu Falls for two days in early November; one day I viewed the falls from Argentina and the next day I viewed the falls from Brazil. Two days gave me sufficient time to stare and gasp at the hundreds of multi-tiered cascading waterfalls that pour out of the densely wooded and vibrant rainforest.
On my first day visiting the falls, I caught an early bus to the Argentina side, and spent a couple of hours exploring the many footpaths that weave along the river and offer different views of the falls. A large portion of the path winds along the top of the falls, right where the falls cascade and plunge over the edge. In the afternoon, I took a guided motorboat tour up into the mouth of the falls. Shout out to my adventurous Catalan friend, Laia, who made the motorboat adventure such a memorable experience. Afterwards, I walked along the trails and footbridges out to see the source of the monstrous Devil’s Throat waterfall.
On the second day, I visited the falls from the Brazilian side. The weather improved, and it was easier to view the waterfall system as there happened to be less mist. The Brazilian side can be visited in 1-2 hours and should not be left off your itineraries, as it offers a completely different vantage and experience from the one offered by the Argentinian side.
My poor Niagra!
Eleanor Roosevelt has been rumored to have exclaimed these words upon seeing the Iguazu Falls
It’s nearly impossible to describe the enormity and might of this waterfall system, especially when you witness the falls up close. The thunderous roar of the water is deafening. The cascading waters collide and spit up relentless clouds of mist, soaking your body from head to toe. Maybe I was imagining it, but the falls seemed so powerful that I could feel its strength vibrating through my bones.
It wasn’t just the force and power of the falls that gave me goosebumps. The natural beauty of the waterfall system left me speechless; there were so many unreal views that I did not know which way to look.
Iguazu Falls Expert Travel Tips
- Spend two days at the Iguazu Falls, one day viewing the falls from Argentina and one day viewing the falls from Brazil. The views are unique and extending your visit increases the likelihood that you will enjoy good weather for at least one of the days. The Iguazu Falls are worth it; though, they will probably ruin waterfalls for you for the rest of your life: nothing else will compare.
- On the Argentinian side, avoid the sloth-paced train and instead walk along the tracks, timing your visit to the Devil’s Throat viewing balcony to avoid hordes of tourists. I timed it so that I would arrive at the Devil’s Throat viewing platform just as the train was leaving from Devil’s Throat full of park visitors. No one else chose to walk the trail, instead of taking the train, so I was able to enjoy the might of Devil’s Throat all by myself.
- Bring waterproof gear if you plan to motorboat into the falls. Some of the visitors looked miserable as they sat soaked and shivering in their seats.
- Visit the Iguazu Falls any month of the year. Keep in mind, December through March is the wet season, so the falls will be at their most voluminous and powerful, but the viewing platforms will be busiest.
- See Argentina, Paraguay, and Brazil from one spot. From the Argentinian town of Puerto Iguazú or the Brazilian town of Foz do Iguaçu it is possible to see the Triple Frontier, a river delta that separates Paraguay, Argentina, and Brazil. It’s not guaranteed to blow your socks off like the Iguazu Falls, but it’s still worth a look.
A Proper Traveler’s Send Off
After six unforgettable weeks of exploring Chile and Argentina (9 flights, 10 cities, and 10 hostels), it was time return to the States. One of my best college friends, Grant, was getting married in two days and I couldn’t miss the celebrations!
On the day I was scheduled to fly home, I had a memorable send-off. After seeing the Iguazu Falls in the morning, I traveled to Buenos Aires, where I connected with my German travel buddy, Janik. (We had met four years earlier in Madrid and had shared one of those nights that starts on the hostel rooftop and then ends at a salsa club at 3 am in the morning). Janik and I had an awesome reunion, catching up on our travels and offering each other travel tips. Then, later that same day, I headed to the airport where Luz visited to say farewell and send me on my way. Iguazu Falls, Janik, Luz, flight home… that’s what I call a traveler’s send off.
